vendredi 2 février 2018

My poor bike

Went to work, parked in my usual spot in the street opposite work (dedicated motorbike parking).
Came out to swan off early to a (birthday) lunch, bike felt a little strange but off I tried to set [lunch was calling!]

Errrrrr, wrong answer. Bike stalled. Huh? Looked at it and realise there's damage. Look closer. More damage. Cancel lunch. Call ins. co, roadside assist for a tow truck, etc. Hopefully just knocked over, right, and needs a couple of new levers.

The biker who owned the one parked next to me comes up while all this palaver is going on. He arrived not too long before I tried to leave for lunch, my bike and scooter were both on the ground so he picked them up (he didn't know what happened although thought it was weird the bikes were 'together' ie hadn't both fallen the same direction).

We look closer and find much more damage - looks like knocked over then run over. The whole front of the bike is out of whack, handlebars over an inch off centre, rim scratched, brake disc bent and broken, on top of all levers and pegs bent/broken, etc. Of course, there's no note, no nothing. Ring the cops to see if any CCTV footage covers the area and can help identify the perp. Talk to local shop owners in case they have security cameras (nope). Tow truck comes, bike won't even roll to go up the ramp, so gets dragged up (poor Suzi :bye::bye::bye: ).

Do a little digging (it really pays to know people) and found out late last night that it was a concrete truck. It must have come round the corner, clipped my bike, then run over her, and clipped the scooter on his way through. Didn't feel a thing, didn't realise - but at least I can go after the guy/company so I don't have to foot the insurance excess.

What are my chances she gets written off rather than repaired?


My poor bike

Honda NC750 SD Suspension Upgrade

Because of age-related arthritic joints making conventional gear changing painful, in September 2017 I bought an ex-Japan 2014 model with just 4,500km on it. The SD has ABS and a dual-clutch transmission which can be used as an automatic and as a trigger-operated 6-speed manual.

In mid Dec 2017 I rode the bike to New Plymouth for suspension specialists, Kiwi Suspension Solutions (KSS) to upgrade the suspension for my weight and to suit the often-ngarly-surfaced minor-roads where I prefer to ride. A dual-purpose bike would probably be better for this but they are too tall for me now because of arthritic joint-stiffness.

KSS have transformed a few past bikes for me so going to them this time was the obvious move. Chief actor there, Robert Taylor, is a hard-working and no doubt demanding boss, and a real professional for suspension work. He’s also a man who doesn’t suffer fools yet continues to accept me as a customer! Particularly as I’m probably a PITA with the very fussy way I want my bikes to ride like a magic carpet over even the worst surfaces.

Before this upgrade I’d rated the stock Honda suspension at only 4/10 because of it’s harshness and generally poor compliance. The ride to NP was punishing for my arthritic back and hips and while the return ride with a Nitron shock and Cogent DDC valves installed was very much better, I still rated it at no more than 8/10. With-rider sags at both ends had been pathetically poor but now had become a perfect 40mm so maybe I should’ve been satisfied with that, but since KSS had brought my other bike, a Buell XB12Ss, to what I rate as 11/10 I was hopeful that better than 8/10 could still be achieved on the SD. And so it has transpired.

Because Wendy-wife and I were driving to NP anyway, this time I took just the fork legs and rear shock for further tuning.

The first procedure by KSS had comprised of re-working the fork internals with appropriate single-rate springs, modified damper-rods etc. and Cogent DDC valves. The oil type and level were also set very differently from stock for better air-springing effect. At the rear, a Nitron R2 shock was fitted. This had been ordered from England a month or so before for my model NC, my weight and load-intentions, my mostly pretty-cruisy riding style, but on often imperfect road surfaces.

Apparently Nitron supply the shocks set up for the specific bike model and then spring them to suit the payload. If that doesn’t satisfy the customer, KSS as NZ agent has the right and ability to tune the unit further, which is what KSS did this time.

Maybe because I showed more than average interest in what happens inside suspension components, or because I can be a PITA if ignored, Robert agreed to my being present to watch proceedings, and what a wonderfully instructive few hours that proved to be. Not only do KSS have an impressive setup and an amazing array of equipment, including an all-important suspension dyno, Robert and his off-sider, Dennis Shaw are true suspension gurus with a lot of experience with road and race-bike suspension development. I was surprised to learn that road riders make up about 75% of KSS’s work. This is not just a race-bike specialist firm, but also there for the likes of road riders like me who realise that they need better suspension performance than manufacturers of road bikes can usually provide, and are prepared to pay for it.

This time the goal was to achieve even more compliance by re-tuning the damping, especially the high-speed compression damping which is so critical for coping with harsh, abrupt bumps. The forks were dismantled completely, slightly-lighter springs fitted and the shim-stacks in the DDC valves altered.

The Nitron shock and compression adjuster were de-oiled and de-gassed and then dismantled as far as necessary to alter the main-piston shim-stacks and for Robert to make another couple of adjustments which I didn’t really understand. Spring and pre-load were not altered and a dyno run done prior to dis-assembly gave a reference force-curve graph. Once re-assembled, re-oiled and re-gassed using special equipment, further dyno runs showed nicely progressive response to different damping settings and then Robert re-zeroed the compression adjuster so that it will operate most effectively in the range where compliance is most critical, but consistent with proper “pressure balance” as Robert explained emphatically. Now I understand why truly-expert suspension work cannot be done without a suspension dyno if endless trial and re-adjustment work is to be avoided.

To illustrate how far KSS will go when necessary to satisfy the more demanding (read infuriating!) customers, all this second stage work was done without further charge. All I had to fund was the oil used.

And the outcome of all this? Once the bike was in one piece again I measured the with-rider, load and full fuel-tank sag readings again. The front sag was now 41mm while the rear was predictably still 40mm. Ideal. As Robert recommended, I backed off the rear rebound until getting almost a bounce under a static push-down test. That proved to be -13/24 so I set it at -12/24 for the test ride and the rear compression at -10/16 clicks. The first ride around my 100km ‘test circuit’ showed that the latest work was not in vein and now deserves a solid 9/10 for the forks and 11/10 for the Nitron rear. Why only 9/10 for the forks? Because they must always remain inferior to the USD Showa 43mm ones on my other bike, a Buell XB12Ss. For the second 280km ride on different roads that same day I upped the Nitron compression to -12/16 and the rebound to -14/24 on the basis that if it felt good before, more of everything should be even better. Certainly it felt no worse.

Is the upgrading finished yet? Not quite. I’d like to see if the forks can be made better than 9/10 by improving further their high-speed compression response so I will remove the DDC valves and send them to Robert for more of his magic. Under front-only braking hard enough to activate the ABS the dive feels fine and 115mm of the 120mm stroke is being used. Currently 7.9N springs, Putoline 10W oil, oil level -140mm.

So, unless you are lucky enough to be of whatever weight the designer specified the stock suspension for, then avoid riding a similar bike which has had an expertly upgraded suspension job or risk dissatisfaction. Remember that no amount of preload adjustment can alter the spring strength, only the ride height. The spring strength needs to be matched to your payload weight for ideal performance.

The Nitron shock includes a small range of height adjustment which I would make use of to raise the rear and so reduce the overly generous fork rake and trail on this bike a little, but already the bike’s height is enough to make mounting and dismounting a bit difficult for my arthritic hips. The use of decent single-rate fork springs has reduced the excessive original sag of 54mm too, which hasn’t helped with mounting but that is still a good trade-off.

Given what I saw in the KSS workshop, it’s clear that Robert and Dennis get to re-tune even the best suspension offerings, this for the same basic reason that nothing can match great components, expertly personalized.

Forget more power, louder exhausts and bling until your bike gets good tyres and personalized suspension.


Honda NC750 SD Suspension Upgrade

I hate bike shops

Why would I go to a local bike shop instead of buying parts online? Ideally, because they can give you good advice, help you get the right parts, and offer help and service. And hopefully because they stock the parts you want, but they never ever do.

All I want is a 15t sprocket for my Husky. Local bike shop ordered me one two weeks ago. Went to pick it up a week later and it's the wrong part - it's for a BMW and has a totally different spline count. Brought it back to them, and they ordered another. I gave them the exact JT part number I need (or equivalent). A week later I go to pick up the new one, and they've re-ordered the same damn part.

I went to the local KTM and just asked them for a 15t sprocket for a KTM 690 SMC because it's the same part. Dumb and Dumber at the counter spent the next 10 minutes pacing between the parts cupboard and the computer trying to figure out if the sprocket in stock was right for the 690 (a bike they sell and have sitting on the floor in the shop). They eventually came to the conclusion that it's not the right part, but they can order it. The shopkeep was bewildered when I declined and told him I don't trust shops to order the right parts.

How is this so hard?


I hate bike shops

New to Forum but not new to bikes

I've belonged to a few model and brand-specific forums but never to this one of a general Kiwi biking nature, so about time to give it a whirl.

My first ride on a motorcycle was in 1946 when I was five and on my own bikes since 1958 and now I'm (literally) a greybeard on either the 2007 Buell XB12Ss I've owned since new or a 2014 Honda NC750 SD owned since Sept 2017. The Honda is a dual clutch transmission job bought because arthritis is making normal gear changing painful after about 30 minutes riding.

I ride weekly with a small group of other oldies and on my own as often as the mood takes me. Being retired has a lot to recommend it.

Organised group rides open to all-comers scare me so I never participate now, having been witness to deaths and serious crashes.

Once belonged to the IXION club in Wellington but never a club member since.

Author of The Bikers Bible and builder of the Allardice Hybrid now in the Southward museum.


New to Forum but not new to bikes

Is NZ fuel a new level of shit?

I got a 1992 Ducati 900 SS. Carburettors, air cooled, 2 valve, pretty basic. I had it in Australia for 7 years, used it very infrequently. I used to lift the tank and turn off the petcock valve then run the engine until the carbs ran dry, then put the bike away for 2-3 months at a time. Left whatever petrol was in the tank in there. Ran it on 91. Never had a problem.

Brought the bike home with me to Auckland last year, and it's never run right since it's been here. I've pulled the carbs twice and completely stripped them and put them through the ultrasonic cleaner at work multiple times each of the 2 times stripped them. Checked everything meticulously for wear etc. Everything else is fine ( Bike only done 15000km from new ), put new plugs in it, didn't make any difference.

It's 2 weeks since the second carb strip and clean, and a few points to note on how it currently runs

1; I set the pilot idle jet at 2 1/2 tunes out, which should be lean ( should be 3 - 3 1/2 ). Doesn't appear to be, as it'll still start with no choke each morning, and after sitting for the weekend. Will pull the plugs tomorrow and see what they look like, and decide whether to adjust the jet further.

2; Runs ok when either on or off the throttle, but trying to hold a steady throttle / speed ( anything under 100kph ), it is terrible, bucking and lurching, must be killing the chain and sprockets

3; Has a weird habit of about once in every so often if I have to sit at a set of lights, it'll foul a plug and run like crap 'til it clears about 750 metres down the road. Most times it'll take a set of lights no worries, but the odd occasion for no reason it'll shit itself.

4; Sat in the garage for 3 days last weekend ( Monday was a Public Holiday ). Started it up on Tuesday morning, and it ran like shit for half the 16 km ride to work. You can't seriously tell me the fuel in the carbs will go off that much in 3 days that it'll run like a drunken monkey until it's got rid of that fuel and got a fresh lot down from the tank? The bike sits in a dry garage, which is reasonably warm ( no condensation / dampness etc ?

Will be installing an additional petcock valve tomorrow, so I can turn it off near to home so the carbs will be all but dry when I put the bike in the garage. But jeez it should be able to sit there for the weekend without packing up??

Is our fuel that shit? Bike runs on 91. I've got a 1973 MG BGT ( which takes 95 ) and have noticed that doesn't seem to like sitting for an extended time these days. I ran it yesterday after 3 1/2 weeks. Started right up, but coughed and spluttered for a few minutes before it would run cleanly. Never used to do that, and nothing has changed on it. I'm wondering if they've changed the fuel blend in the last couple of years?? Might run a tank of Avgas and see how it likes that...........


Is NZ fuel a new level of shit?

jeudi 1 février 2018

Bikes Yamaha R6, rebuilt and custom metalic red.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Lis...?id=1533183221

Goes fantastic.
April 2017 - Purchased as an insurance write off.
May 2017 – Strip down bike and remove engine for cleaning.
June 2017 - Valves checked while the engine was out.
June 2017 - Compression test with engine out – good result
June – September 2017
• New Headlight, new bulbs.
• Replace front wheel
• Rebuild front forks – replaced fork tubes.
• Replace Radiator
• Replace Fairing Kit with custom Red kit
• Have Fuel Tank professionally painted to match new fairing kit
• Replace Muffler with stock 2008 GSXR750 muffler
• New Clutch and brake levers
• New pillion foot pegs
• New aftermarket tail tidy
• New Air Filter
• New Battery
• New genuine plastic infill panels – coolant reservoir cover etc.
• New Mirrors
• Brand new Front wheel
• Second hand rear wheel
• Second hand swing arm
• New LED indicators with load resistors.
• New red anodised grips.
23rd September - Oil and Filter replace.
Registered to July 2018.
WOF to September 2018.
4 December 2017 – brand new rear tyre Michelin pilot road 2.
4 December 2017 – Red Chrome wrap on wheels.
Just clicked over 92000 k’s and will increase since I use it daily for commuting.
While restoring this bike I left no stone unturned, everything that needed replacing was replaced.
Chain and sprockets are good.
Brakes are good.
Slight scratch on the engine case on the right hand side.
The bike came with aftermarket adjustable clip-ons.
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Bikes Yamaha R6, rebuilt and custom metalic red.

SL125 Wheel rebuild offsets?

I have a basket case SL125 that I am restoring. Rims, hubs etc where de spoked before it got to me . Wheels will be sent to Hamco soon but I don't have any offset measurements. Any SL125 owners out there kind enough to assist. Thanks in advance.


SL125 Wheel rebuild offsets?